I have read the forum and did a search on all the paint types mentioned on here, and came to the conclusion that Wilmington Tan will be the best choice for my hallway and living room.
I have one wall in the dining area painted in a red. So much has been said here about Benjamin Moore, but they are just too expensive. If I was to match the paint choice, which brand out there will be the best in terms of coverage and how it goes on?
Also..should I have the primer tinted in a lighter shade of the paint?
Dini
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The floor vent hint is a good one, I'll take pictures of that and go to a tile store like you said.
Yes do all that [B]except[/B] the Lowes, HD part (because it's a real possibility you are going to be 'helped' by someone who hasn't a clue or only took tiling 101 when you need someone with way more knowledge). Go to a tile store where they know what they are doing and get them to advise you about what you need.
Hint: if you want to see what you have for a subfloor, sometimes you can get a pretty good idea by taking off a floor vent which will show you how thick and what kind of board is under that lino.
This is good information. I'll go down to the basement and meausre the distance between the joists, take pictures and hopefully they will be able to help at HD or Lowes.
I am guessing now that I'll have to rip up the existing tiles, linoleum and then get proper subfloor before laying the new tiles
Oh boy.. you can not put hard (ceramic/porcelain) tiles over lino or even use the same subfloor as lino. It's just too flexible and tile requires no give especially if you use a larger tile. I crossed my fingers and tiled over a subfloor used for lino but my tiles are .75" and have another special mid layer to give better adhesion (sort of like ditra but way way cheaper) and so far no problem and that subfloor has a zillion screws in it to keep it tight to the joists. There are formulas for this stuff and you have to measure your joists before you even get into which tile size you can use if you want them to last.
So, common mistake.That's the trouble with the stupid home shows where they just tile away and never warn about the subfloors. The tile and grout can end up cracking in no time if the subfloor isn't right (as seen on Holmes on Homes so many times).
If you want to get up on the different factors, I have found this site really helpful and have learned a lot there. Lots of pros and DIYers to offer up info and help.
[url]http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=11[/url]
Please elaborate, as that could be the problem I am having now. The tiles currently there are cracking ( 12*12 ) installed on top of linoleum..
I am considering using DITRA or proper subfloor before installing the new ones.
Just a word of caution, make sure you have the right joist spacing and subfloor before buying any size ceramic (or porcelain) tile. If that stuff isn't right, you are wasting your time and money with tile.
HD will likely have a 16X16 tile at a good price for your kitchen.
Thank you everyone, really appreciated all the advice. I ended up getting Behr, as there was a promotion on them this week at HD. I had them colour match the BM wilmington tan.
I didn't prime, just did 2 coats of the satin finish and it turned out ok. I finished the livingroom and dining room, just the hallway left now. That will have to wait till next week.
Another reason why I didn't want to spend too much on paint, is because I might be moving again in the next year or two with work. I am now on the hunt for a good 16x16 ceramic floor tile in dark brown for the kitchen, that will compliment the wilmington tan.
I didn't know you were talking about a new build. I know our new build didn't have the best paint on it but we still did not prime, just did 2 good coats and bought the best quality paint we could afford. We have used both BM and SICO and my husband prefers the SICO for the quality of its paint.
I used Cloverdale on my fence last year. Can't comment on how it lasts yet but will say that store is quite amazing. They offer complete replacement if you aren't happy and even though I'd have to say it was my fault they mixed the wrong colour for me, they gave me 3 new gallons of paint, no charge anyway. I was very impressed.
Also worth checking is in AB you get a discount there if you are a member of the AMA, so maybe other auto clubs have it too.
Here in the lower mainland, BC, one such store is Cloverdale Paint. As far as I know, they only sell their brand but will happily colour match (in fact, they keep all the fan decks close at hand). It seems that all the movie and set builders go to the Cloverdale store in Burnaby (other locations exist) as well as painting contractors. My brother is a professional painter (among other things!!) and swears by this paint. To keep him happy once, I purchased Cloverdale kitchen/bath paint in an eggshell finish (can't stand a shiny finish on the walls!)... loved it!! It was like rolling the softest creamy butter on my walls! And the coverage was wonderful.
Not sure if this brand is available back east...
Welcome Dini. Sure there are other paints you can use (personally, I won't use BM but won't go into the reasons). I'm really picky about paint and used Behr when I sold my last house just to keep the price down. it does cover well but I didn't care for the finish. It just didn't level out nicely like better paints do. Some people don't mind that but it makes me nuts to see bumply paint.
What you want to ensure is the paint you use will take hallway traffic (hand prints, bumps, and such) and can be cleaned without getting marked up or losing it's finish. I didn't live with the Behr long enough to comment on that, but a good paint store person can tell you which brands are good in that situation. For sure Ralph Lauren sucks in that department as I had it for a long time in my LR/DR in that house.
Meanwhile, find the paint store in your area that sells primarily to contractors. It will have numerous brands, probably not be open past 4:30 any day and those folks are usually experts and have no allegiance to one brand over another. they go with what works for each situation. You can usually spot them in the yellow pages (under paint) because of the hours and the numbers of brands they carry.
Names I have used and like include Pratt & Lambert, Sico, Farrow & Ball (which is only sold in specialty stores, comes premixed colours, and costs, so that may not be what you want). For sure, don't cheap out just because of price because it will cost you more in paint and grief.
As for cutting in, I'm with you on avoiding tape. I used to use a good angled brush and once you get a steady hand and the technique they work well. When I painted the last house I picked up a new trim brush they were selling at HD. It's cone shaped instead of flat. It took a few minutes to get the way it worked, but it was a breeze to use once I figured it out (full of paint helps a lot). They often have them on a little rack on the paint desk vs being with the other brushes and they make them in a few sizes and for oil or latex. I was so miffed the movers lost mine somewhere I had to replace it because it is so useful and I didn't want to be without for this house.
I wouldn't bother with a primer. You aren't making a huge change in colour and if the walls already have paint on them they should be sealed well enough to be covered with 2 coats of good paint.
Thank you very much with that loaded advice. The red has already been painted, I did BM raspberry truffle, but I colour matched it with valspar from Lowes.
I am now looking at BEHR from HD, as they have a promotion going on now to get 20-30% off this weekend. I love Jane Lockhart's show, and watch it religiously.
I plan to only tape the baseboards, can't be bothered with the top ceiling bit, and will rather just use a brush to cut-in. What is the best brand of brush to get? I don't want to cheap out on rollers and brush
The builder would have primed the drywall before painting the "builder flat paint" on it (a necesary step to seal the drywall)... in fact, the flat could be the primer, although I can't imagine anyone selling you a house with unpainted walls.
If you're painting the tan on these walls, you shouldn't need to prime - or have a tinted primer. Likely just 2 coats of the paint.
If, however, you're painting the red you should use a tinted primer for at least the first coat. I would recommend getting this paint from a store where you can trust the staff to guide you... red is a very transparent colour and, depending on the shade you get, can require multiple coats (I once painted a red room that required 5 coats - and that was after I used a tinted primer!!). Have the staff help you choose a red that is less transparent (not easy to do, but I've seen Jane Lockhart [Colour Confidential] do it!!). I think quality paint should make a difference as well. Remember... quality doesn't necessarily mean more expensive (I read here that Ralph Lauren paint has bad coverage and it's expensive). Your goal is to only have to do one coat of tinted primer and two coats of red... three max. Of course if you realy MUST have that one red that will require more coats... then be prepared going into the project ! :D
Good luck!!
Really? Won't the walls just suck in the paint though, with the house being a new build with builder flat paint on it now?
SICO paint is a great choice and available at Rona, try an eggshell finish. You do not need to prime the beige wall before using the Wilmington Tan colour.
I have access to Rona, home depot, lowes and BM stores. I just don't want to spend the BM kind of price on paints. The red by the way, is an accent wall that is staying.
The area that needs to be painted wilmington tan is currently beige. From what have read on here, SICO paints seem popular? I want a finish that is washable though, with either a soft sponge or cloth.
What brands do you have access to? CIL and Home Hardwares brand are pretty good. I would suggest just a white primer to cover the red, maybe 2 coats or however many is needed to hide the red.