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Calling all Staining Masters: Please help me with my chairs!

nelly's picture
nelly

Hello everybody, a couple of weeks ago, I posted to this forum about changing the wood colour of my dining chairs. I thank everybody for their advice and since then have attempted to strip, sand, stain and varnish a chair.

I am feeling huge disappointment at the result. The stripping was a chore but acceptable. Sanding was easy. To my amazement, the chair legs, once bare, were actually made of some sort of hardwood. I tried the staining and putting on first coat of polyurethane today - the experience and the results were not good. :hairpull:

I went to a local store that was highly recommended for finishings and such, it is called Mohawk. It is in Vancouver, if there are folks from the Lower Mainland on this forum. I got a stain called appropriately enough, chocostain. Like it's name, it is a chocolate coloured stain. I spent over 3 hours this afternoon staining the legs of 1 chair. I got uneven coverage and the colour looked more black than dark brown. I put on a light polyurethane coat, with the intention of lightly sanding and then putting on another coat. However, the first coat I put on was blotchy and little bits of the sponge applicator I was using ended up on the chairs. :eek:

I don't have the heart or the energy to fix this particular chair, but I am convinced I can do a better job on the next 5 chairs.

Here are some questions I hope you can help me with:

1) Do you think I should use a wood conditioner to make the stain come out more evenly? If so, what would you recommend?

2) The wood stain I am using is oil-based. Will the aniline dye (dark walnut) from Lee Valley Tools make staining easier?

3) I put on a thick first layer of stain and let it stay on for 15 minutes. The stain dried before I could wipe it down so I ended up using some paint thinner - this resulted in most of the stain coming off. What is the appropriate time to wait before wiping off the stain? and how do I build up the colour without ruining the underlying stain layers? I was using an old rag to wipe down the stain - is there a special staining rag I should be using? type of fabric that is better for staining, etc?

4) How do I put on a poly coat that is smooth and without little bits of stuff on it? I stumbled on a post by another forum member, in which she restained a table and the finish looks gorgeous! How do I do this? Should I change my technique? or the tools I am using (currently a foam applicator)? Should I use spray poly for the second and final coat?
For reference, here is a link to the topic. [url]http://forums.houseandhome.com/showthread.php?t=7389&highlight=aniline+dye&f=10[/url]

Thanks in advance for everybody's help!

Cheers,
nelly

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genigi's picture
genigi

I might be a bit late with this post, but I refenish furniture as a hobby (mostly pieces from 1920s - 1940s) and I [B]only[/B] use Circa 1850 gel stains. You apply with a sponge brush following the grain direction, small section at a time, then wipe. You might need 3 to 4 coats, but the results are amazing. No need to varnish, it's a 2 in 1 product. You'll get a satin finish that looks somewhat like a natural beeeswax finish. TTFN!

jenjen's picture
jenjen

i did 2 coats and let it dry about 2-3 hours in between...and then i did a clear coat on top...the next day...but yup..you have to let it dry in between applications...and remember...it's easier to add stain than to take it off...so put the stain in light coats then add to get the shade you want....rather than put it on and have to sand again cuz it's too dark or not what you want

karenm's picture
karenm

Follow the instruction on the can to the T for drying times. This is very important. Did you mean the tv unit finish? I used a brush and hand brushed on the polyeurathane. I didn't worry too much about bubbles, they tend to pop by themselves. I have my doubts the wood conditioner will make a difference. One bit of advice, make sure you buy these things from a place you can return them if it doesn't work. I tried several different techniques for some different projects and it really adds up at $10-$15 per can each time I had to try something new.

nelly's picture
nelly

Thanks everybody so far for your help. I checked on my chair this morning and I hate it so I am going to strip it and try again.

The finishes on the fireplace and the tv stand look awesome. How many layers of stain did you use? and how long between stain layers? Am I supposed to let one layer dry first and then put on another?

The poly coat looks so smooth. Was that accomplished with a brush? or poly spray like an aerosol?

So far on my shopping list:
1) pre-conditioner
2) stain sponge/applicator

nelly

karenm's picture
karenm

Hardwoods don't accept stain too well. Also watch over sanding. We went through this a while ago and I wasn't happy with the results. You have two options. You have do do some sort of surface coat. Minwas has a poly and stain in one, acts like a paint but you see the grain. Only problem is last time I tried it it didn't have any chocolate colours. I used the Bombay Mahagony for this tv unit:
[img]http://www.jakeandkaren.com/house/photos/family/DSCN2213.jpg[/img]

The other option is aniline dyes, Lee valley sells them. Make sure when you sand you don't flatten the grain and make it impermeable to stain. Wet the wood first to raise the grain and use the aniline dye. Top coat with a polyeurathane as usual.

Good luck!

jenjen's picture
jenjen

Minwax makes a product called...Water Based Pre-Stain Conditioner...i used it when i did my fireplace...and it worked out really well....i got even coverage on the wood...the other thing...did you brush it on?...they is a ''staining sponge'' out there...you can get it at Home Depot...really cheap...you get 2 in a pack...makes the whole process go alot quicker...here's my fireplace...i couldn't find an exact match to my floors so i made my own...

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