I have some wardrobe cabinets from Ikea and I would like to install a few more shelves. The partial or half-holes inside are only at the top and bottom of the cabinet interior, as they were designed to have a clothing pole in the center section. So, to convert them to all-shelves I have to figure out how to drill those holes that are only deep enough to hold the shelf support clips.
Does anyone here know how to do this? We have a drill, but what else do I need? I should mention too that the item is made of MDF-type material with a finish on it, not solid wood.
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yup that's it - jig, template, pattern, similar names for basically any small purpose-built tool or accessory to facilitate a repetitive process while reducing error possibilities (esp. when you get into measuring those eights and sixteens of an inch, doesn't take much)
also a really good idea when installing new cabinet handles that don't use the old hole positions, much better chance of having them all line up properly
not sure where the use of "jig" comes from (nothing to do with an Irish dance really) but it's often used in woodworking/cabinetmaking context
what's a jig?
Is it like a pattern? (thinking of a sewing pattern here....)
Perfect! Thanks for the info. Depth stops will definitely make this easier for us. :)
these models (ranging from about $7 to $10) are from Lee Valley but you can probably find equivalent items at your usual hardware/reno store
having problems resizing on this computer but here is the link
[url]http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=42335&cat=1,180,42334[/url]
Hi PaulD. Number two above looks good-neither of us is very good with that thing and as a matter of fact ALL the bits are pretty new, due to lack of use! :o
I like the flag idea a lot, too. I have an extra shelf in storage somewhere, and I'll use it for practice.
two more techniques for blind holes
1- put the drill bit (not spinning) into an existing hole, then fold a piece of painter's or masking tape over the bit, creates a spinning "flag" that helps in determining when to stop, sometimes easier to see the spinning green or blue tape than a marker line on the bit - plus allows multiple projects (more than one sharpie line gets difficult to see)
2- you can get specialized collars that fasten to the drill bit with a set-screw at the desired depth, not overly very expensive at a big box reno or hardware store - definitely safest way to go if you're concerned about punching through
if you have many of those to do, consider making a jig out of a scrap of plywood or mdf - particle board is too crumbly for more than a few applications (i.e. one or two holes to line up with existing holes - with pegs in them for easy lineup, then as many holes as the new ones you're about to make), an easy way to keep all holes at same level, which is "a good thing" for shelves
regarding drilling in melamine without chipping, make sure the bit is in great condition (i.e. not worn out) - also, haven't tried but maybe a diamond-bit drill (sold for ceramic tiles) would give a cleaner hole
good luck and let us know how it turns out
Sounds scary. I can just picture going right through. :eek:
Thanks to all for the great tips. We'll have to give it a try and hope for the best! Silly me, I thought there would be some kind of funky attachment for such a thing. See how much I know about power tools? :o
as ILC suggested measure the existing depth of the hole with your drill bit and mark with red marker. but then use masking tape to wrap the bit where the line is so it is clearer when drilling when to stop. to prevent chipping just go slow and when pulling it out keep the drill spinning, good luck:D-
that you can prevent chipping in wood, if you place tape over the part where you plan to drill and then drill through the tape. I have never tried this myself, however so maybe someone else can add their "know-how".
and he gave me two ideas. I hope I can explain it well!
Basically, you just need the drill to stop when the hole is deep enough, right?
1) Figure out how "deep" you want the hole to be (look at the shlef support, put the drill bit inside a preexisting hole) and using nail poish or a non-smear thin-tip marker, draw a line all the way around the drill bit. Then when you are drilling, stop when the bit reaches the line.
2) Put a wall anchor over the drill bit and pull it up all the way: leave the tip of the drill bit exposed to the depth of your hole.
Does that make sense?
I'd worry about the melamine chipping around the hole: maybe others can help you with that bit of it?!