Has anyone ever drywalled around a tub. I just want to check and make sure that the drywall goes up to the edge of the fiberglass and not over it. Then I assume the tile goes over the lip of the fiberglas and the edge of the drywall.
If you have drywalled a bathroom I would appreciate your expertise.
Thanks.
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Get the fibreboard. Avoid the possible problems that would cost a fortune to repair. A few extra dollars now is worth the possible pain later.
No you wouldn't/shouldn't need special board with a one piece surround. With tiles, the water can seep through the grout so you do need that extra protection. If you have tall people in the house, I'd still go to cement board for that tiled area as tall people end up splashing water above the surrounds. There have been a few people on the DIY and tiling forums trying to figure out how to fix the soggy walls above their surrounds just because of this and the advice has been get rid of the drywall or green board and put cement board up before tiling. You do have to make sure you seal the joint where that piece starts and the surround ends. The problem is if there is a seepage, the drywall around the surround will soak it up and go soft/moldy.
I talked to the drywall guy. The Aqua board goes above the shower and 10" beyond. The rest can be drywall. I am off to buy some Aqua Board :)
This is for a all in one shower tub. The tile is just a row across the top for decoration really (above the top of the shower)
DBD your pictures and description are great. Thank you so much.
I am a little confused though. They told me that with an all in one shower I don't need to use any type of cement board (like the rest of the bathroom). I'll have to call back and double check. I haven't started yet, so I can still change it if I have to.
I have attached a copy of the bathroom upstairs that the builder did. I want to do the same thing downstairs.
If you are tiling around a tub, and I assume there is a shower, (maybe not)
I would follow what Mike Holmes does, and I did this in my bathroom. First, I installed cement board not drywall, as it is better regarding moisture and mold. Then I would put the orange stuff on the walls (cant remember if the wall stuff is called Kerdi or Ditra, but any tile place will tell you) Then tile over top. Not sure about exactly what you mean about the lip, so sorry cant help there.But I do know that cement board, and the orange wall covering makes your bathroom much better moisture wise. Oh and make sure you use the proper grout, depends on whether you use ceramic or porcelain tile and the space between the tiles. Again, ask your tile store.
Me me me. I did, well not me personally because that was one job I actually finally found someone for who knew what they were doing (a contractor friend who did it as a favour but is the type you know knows what they are doing). Since it nearly was me though I did have to do a lot of research and can tell you mine is done right from all I have seen.
the backer board (never ever say 'drywall' and 'bath' or 'tile' in the same sentence or some tradesperson will start rolling their eyes) goes just to the top edge of the tub flange. The next lip of the flange is where the tile ends (vs what seemed logical to me, on the top of the tub). I suppose if you wanted to take it so the grout and bottom edge was on the tub edge you could but it means more chance of water damage or mold or something because when someone sits in the tub or gets out, the tub flexes and so the grout, seal, mastic can break. Resting it on the flange above means more of the tile is actually attached to the wall vs the tub, the bottom edge with silicone or caulk which is flexible, so all stays as intended.
Anyway, here are pictures of mine which is ready to tile now. I used something called fiber rock which is better than cement board (smoother and more water proof). You don't want to use drywall or green board (no matter what anyone tells you... in the US it is no longer on any approved building materials list for around tubs as it will wick up water and get moldy if not totally sealed). Cement board is also okay but not quite as smooth as this fiber rock (which is ceramic vs being cement as I understand it). There is a moisture barrier only on the outside wall as that is a cold wall. The red stuff is a rubber type material you can buy anywhere (pretty expensive but supposed to be worth it) which you paint over the screws and joints (taped). This completely seals the walls against water. If you do use drywall, you can completely coat with the red stuff but it's not the preferred course.
You can also use Ditra which is the orange stuff Mike HOlmes uses but it's overkill apparently unless you are building a shower from scratch.
BTW, this took about 3 days to do as first my walls had to be leveled. Second day put up the boards, third day smooth the joints and paint on the red stuff (didn't take long).
Hope that helps you.