i was wondering if anyone has made floating shelves? i found the project on this website, and it says you need an "f" bracket so u can slide the shelf on. i have asked around and looked on the internet as well and i cannot seem to find any information on how to make them or where to buy them. can anyone help? thanks!
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Ron Hazelton's Housecalls website also has a good example of a method used to building floating shelves very simply, with some stock strips, plywood, and a few screws/glue.
These work well.
I built a shelf that is between 4 & 5 feet long and about 10 inches deep, and 2 1/2 inches thick, with a bottom. I have several display pieces on it, including a medium-sized plant in a terra cotta pot, 2x3 foot framed painting, and other chotchkeys, so it seems to be pretty strong. I built it as follows:
I screwed a 2x2 cleat into the wall studs, the length of the shelf minus the end pieces, using 4 or 5 inch heavy screws (can't remember, but they have to go through the 2x2, whick is actually 1 1/2 by 1 1/2), the drywall, and deep into the stud, which is 3 1/2 inches deep. I built the shelf like a three-sided box, using 1/2 inch birch plywood for the top and bottom, and 1x3 poplar for the ends and front. I used butt joints for the sides and front, placing the sides on the outside, rather than overlapping the front over the sides. (Hope that's clear!) I used wood glue & finishing nails to attach all pieces of the box together. The shelf slips onto the cleat, then you attach it by drilling down through the top into the cleat, using 2 inch screws, countersinking them, and filling the holes.
I saw the carpenter on Divine Design build a floating shelf a few days ago, using a metal bar, about 2 inches wide with holes all along it, into which he screwed metal pins - could this be the elusive "f-bracket"?
If you want to do a more "weight worthy" type, go with the first option of using a "steel pin" - you can just buy the steel rod and have it cut to size or cut it yourself if you have one of those cutters. You should also plan to use a thicker rod piece.
If you plan to add a lot of weight, you may want to cut your pin longer to distribute the weight more evenly, thus, drilling the hole in the shelf longer to accommodate the longer pin - and ensure that the joists the shelf will span can hold that weight. That part shouldn't be a problem.
This is not a difficult project - the hardest part is ensuring that you line up the holes from where they are marked on the wall to where they are drilled in the back of the shelf.
Hope that helps. I know it seems confusing - (my darling husband is the one who builds, I just design) :-) so if you need someone to walk you through it more step by step, please let me know. :-)
i kind of want a shelf that is about 3" thick or so. would those rods support that? i saw lots of melamine shelves but the ones that are thicker are pine and heavier woods like that. the ones i have seen in magazines are quite thick and the directions i have managed to find on the net say to fasten the front and side pieces, but they have no bottoms and they need an f bracket, but i cannot find one in any stores where i live. do they carry those at home depot? there is a home depot opening here next week, so maybe i will look there too.
The shelf is supported by 3 pins which are inserted into both the shelf and into the wall joists. (sort of the same idea when you use biscuits to join two pieces of wood)
If you're making a floating shelf that will hold a lot of weight, you're best to use the metal pins as described below. Otherwise, you can use wood dowel pieces.
Each pin (or wooden dowel piece if you're using that) is 5" long 5/16 inch threaded, zinc plated steel rod, cut from a larger piece. 2" is inserted into the shelf itself, 3" is inserted into the joist. Our shelf is 48" long and was centered across 3 joists.
Step 1:
Mark the position of the joists that it will span on the wall and transfer these markings to where you want the shelf centered to ensure all holes match up.
Step 2:
In the back edge of the shelf, (the side that will be flush against the wall) I drilled 3, 9/32" diameter holes, 2 1/4" deep. This is slightly smaller than the size of the rod, so that I could thread the rod into the hole for a secure fit.
Step 3:
In the wall, I drilled a 5/16" diameter hole 3 1/4 in deep, the same diameter as the rod, so that I could easily fit the shelf and pins into the holes. Use a level to ensure the placement of all three holes. After test fitting, I put a small amount of gap filling adhesive into the holes in the wall, and gently tapped the shelf into place.
As for the tealights, before installing the shelf, I used a drill press and forstner bit with a slightly larger diameter than the tealights to drill a flat bottom hole about 1/8" deep in the top face of the shelf for each of the candles.
I hope that's clear but if it's not, let me know and I'll post more detailed instructions.
I would love your instructions, as long as I can get all my supplies. (F bracket can not be found in Orangeville, Ontario.) Thank You. My e-mail is huotathome@sympatico.ca
help with floating shelves
I guess I should have also shown you the pic by daylight. Sorry.
Wow, your hubby did a beautiful job on your shelf. And you did a fantastic job creating a perfect vignette in your room. You have a wonderful sense of style. ;)
Here's a picture of the shelf after installed and lit up with tealites.
So sorry for forgetting this thread... I always check in to read the other ones but I always forget this is here :-) My DH typed these up so hopefully they're easy to follow. Please let me know if you need further details.
The shelf is supported by 3 pins inserted into the shelf and into the wall joists. Each pin is 5" long 5/16 inch threaded, zinc plated steel rod, cut from a larger piece. 2" is inserted into the shelf itself, 3" is inserted into the joist. Our shelf is 48" long and was centered on 3 joists.
Step 1:
Mark the position of the joists on the wall and transfer these markings to where you want the shelf centered to ensure all holes match up.
Step 2:
In the back edge of the shelf, I drilled 3, 9/32" diameter holes, 2 1/4" deep. This is slightly smaller than the size of the rod, so that I could thread the rod into the hole for a secure fit.
Step 3:
In the wall, I drilled a 5/16" diameter hole 3 1/4 in deep, the same diameter as the rod, so that I could easily fit the shelf and pins into the holes. Use a level to ensure the placement of all three holes. After test fitting, I put a small amount of gap filling adhesive into the holes in the wall, and gently tapped the shelf into place.
As for the tealights, before installing the shelf, I used a drill press and forstner bit with a slightly larger diameter than the tealights to drill a flat bottom hole about 1/8" deep in the top face of the shelf for each of the candles.
Hope that helps.
that would be awesome. the only thing i am having trouble with is the "F" bracket. how do i make them? thanks!
WOULD YOU BE ABLE TO EMAIL
OR FAX ME THE INSTRUCTIONS AS WELL?
THANKS
Okay, I didn't but my hubby did. Would you like me to get him to send you the instructions? I would be pleased if you haven't already found what you're looking for. Happy to help.
Hi!
I found the other way to make floating shelves.
RE: custom shelving question
IKEA's have metal brackets that screw into the wall, basically a metal strip welded to metal tubes at 90 deg. angles. The tubes go into the shelf (they have 3/4 inch tubes that fit into 3/4 " holes that are drilled into the edge of the shelf. I figure you could probably do the same thing entirely in wood - you would screw a strip of wood the same thickness of your shelf (if the shelf is 2" thick, then maybe a 1X2) into the wall. In that strip, you would insert dowels. The dowels could then fit into holes that you would predrill into the edge of the shelf (not sure how strong this would be - if you were packing it with books, I'd be a bit leary - but if you make it out of metal, then shouldn't be a problem, as long as the bracket is secured to studs). The IKEA ones have set screws to hold the shelf onto the tubing snugly (and also makes it easily removeable)
P.S. I copy this article from http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/decor/, becasue my englsih is not good enough to write so hope that helps!