POSTED: June 5, 2009 by PaintbrushPatty
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Good idea! :)
Well, after one coat from yesterday, there is not any seepage. Maybe this is a good sign? I did put on two coats of primer so maybe that is the seal...One can hope. Now I've got to sand and paint a second coat of colour. I may go for a third as a just in case deal. We'll see...:)
If there is still seepage at the end you could do a glaze over top in a shade the same as the seepage, just a thought.
I hope he does a good job too since my doors need help with the new trim on them not being quite what I had envisioned and them being crappy to begin with. Meanwhile I get to go buy even more paint now that he wants to use oil (see now if that yellow I had shown everyone had worked out I could have just used that as it's oil but as he pointed out I could go buy a gallon of oil to lighten it or I could just go buy a gallon of oil in the colour I want...seems logical to me. So yellow paint will be sent for recycling I guess.. along with the gallon of cloud white latex I bought and won't need now. I wonder if it would work as ceiling paint in the kitchen...).
You know, if you were near, I would gladly give you the oil primer and melamine paint that I orginally bought for our cabinets! Of course, you'd end up with ICI's Minimalist White but I think for selling purposes it would be alright.
This morning, things look good with only the one coat, but we'll see...
I keep telling myself to have patience...I just want to barrel ahead with the job but I can't...Probably a good thing anyway for the sake of the finish. :)
Yes it's amazing what a new coat can do to give a kitchen a whole new feel and look. I hope you find that seeping has stopped so you can continue and finish up.
I hope he does a good job too since my doors need help with the new trim on them not being quite what I had envisioned and them being crappy to begin with. Meanwhile I get to go buy even more paint now that he wants to use oil (see now if that yellow I had shown everyone had worked out I could have just used that as it's oil but as he pointed out I could go buy a gallon of oil to lighten it or I could just go buy a gallon of oil in the colour I want...seems logical to me. So yellow paint will be sent for recycling I guess.. along with the gallon of cloud white latex I bought and won't need now. I wonder if it would work as ceiling paint in the kitchen...).
Thanks for thinking of me, DBD. :)
If I remember correctly, Peter Fallico on Home to Stay recommends oil paint for cabinets too. I went with the 100% acrylic anyway. I've done one coat over a few of the cabinets that have some light yellowing and I've got good coverage so far. I'll sand and recoat to see what happens.
The difference between then and now is superb! I'm so happy that I've dug in my heels on this big job. Of course, I won't be doing this again! I'll save all my pennies and have them shipped out to be sprayed if there is ever a next time! LOL!
I read your other post about the painter costs, and I really think that your kitchen quote is fair. I hope he does a good job!
I just had a painter here to give me a quote and we were talking about paints and he happened to mention he would rather use oil on kitchen cabinets because you never know what can start seeping through the paint when they aren't new cabinets (and being in the kitchen there can be all manner of things clinging to the doors). The oil eliminates the problem apparently. So I thought I would pass that along to you in case it helps.
I don't know... shellac doesn't bleed so I bet it isn't shellac coming through. Shellac is actually a sealer and is often what is in those sealing primers.
Please do not risk you paint or time until you can stop that bleed. it could be grease or nicotine or something else and it is going to come right through the paint eventually if it is coming through the primer that quickly.
Have you got any of the original wood still showing? If you do, get some ammonia (sudsing ammonia is available in the cleaners section of almost all stores) and spray some on and wipe with a clean cloth. See what comes off. You'd be surprised how good that stuff is at getting things like old smoke, nicotine stains, gas residue, etc. off that other cleaners (even TSP) won't touch. then you can figure out how to deal with that stuff that is already primed. I'm betting it's getting a more heavy duty primer like Kiltz or another Zinsser product.
edit: I just noticed you mentioned you were using BIN and that is supposed to be a sealer. maybe another coat would help but I would keep an eye on it if it's seeping and call the company and see what they say to do.
Hi DBD,
Well, I think it was the shellac finish on the cabinets that was bleeding through. I read the can of BIN 123 and it states that cedar and something else may bleed through but to wait a full 24 hours before applying another coat. So, after a sanding and another coat, I have less bleed, but still some.
I won't get to the painting until tomorrow or even the next day depending on my son's desire to nap, so we'll see eventually if the paint itself will be okay.
I am delighted with the difference though. Even with primer, the doors look really great.
Thanks so much for ALL your help, btw. You've been so informative and I appreciate it.
:)
Is there stain coming through the primer or is it just showing through the primer? If it's coming through you need a different primer. You can get Zinsser and some others that will seal in things like that. The key is to look for the ones that say they 'seal' or 'cover stains'. You may even be able to just buy a spray and use something like that where the stains are vs recoating it all. Depends on how bad it is. The problem is if there is something seeping through it will eventually come through the paint too.
edit: I just noticed you mentioned you were using BIN and that is supposed to be a sealer. maybe another coat would help but I would keep an eye on it if it's seeping and call the company and see what they say to do.
Well, I started my big job...On Thursday, I cleaned the fronts with TSP and then sanded, and then used a tack cloth. Yesterday I primed one side with BIN Zinnser. There's a yellowing coming through from the original shellac, I'm guessing...So I will paint another coat of primer after I paint the other sides and sand and clean...It's a lot of work. I'm juggling downtime with my husband because our son is recovering from surgery...Probably not the best timing on my part for this project...
Anyway, I will post a before and after thread when I've painted out all the cabinets and they are back up on the wall. We plan to buy new countertops and add backsplash to the kitchen...and I hope to find a suitable semi-flush light fixtured too. :)
Thanks so much everyone for your help, support and enthusiasm. :confetti:
Ohhhhh - I'm going shopping tomorrow! lol Thank you. I have a "thing" about paint brushes.
Actually that brush I posted is a much larger brush than most artist brushes. I'd say the bristles/cone on mine is as least 2" long and 1" wide and made specifically for painting houses. Reality is someone probably realized the artist shape brushes work more precisely so just adapted them. I used to use my art brushes but this one holds more paint and covers more so it's faster.
You are so right about boys and their toys! Everytime I mention something that needs doing, DH thinks "power tool" - it's genetic. As a result, his toy box contains a major air compressor, a smaller air compressor, and all the accessories, including various types of paint sprayers.
I used a brush to paint my kitchen cabinets.
Your kitchen is going to look incredible when you are done - I'm looking forward to the pictures, and to how delighted you will be with the difference. This project is going to be really worth it to you - your before picture shows so much promise.
I use that brush too DBD - but I thought I was the only one! I had a few that I used to paint a mural on my son's bedroom wall, and when I was doing trim - just thought why not? It's meant to be an artists brush but it sure makes the job easier.
I've seen them at Rona and HD (probably other places have them but I haven't looked) and they come in various sizes and for latex or oil.
I'll attach a picture of my well used brush so you can see the shape.
Sorry for the delay in replying...My son went into the hospital on Monday to have his tonsils and adenoids removed and ear tubes put in. We just arrived home today...All three of us are pooped out! LOL!
DBD, thanks for the paintbrush idea. I actually have paintbrushes from my paintng days (mostly acrylics) and I use them for the small spaces. But I will certainly check out the one you suggest. :)
Cheryl, unfortuately, I don't think anyone in Ottawa or surrounding area will spray my cabinets or drawer fronts for my budget but that's okay. I've always been a DIY'er anyway. And, I think you're right about the Big Boy Toys. LOL!
I'd say for $500, it is well worth it to have them professionally done.
A decent small compressor is going to cost you a few hundred dollars, and a sprayer attachment will be about $50. You'll want a good quality paint, so you are probably looking at more than $50 per gallon for that. So you are close to $400 to do it yourself. Plus, you don't have a spray booth, so you will not only have a lot of mess to clean up, you'll get bits of dust, bugs, etc in the paint no matter how hard you try.
Methinks your husband is looking for an excuse to buy an air compressor! They really are the ultimate toy for guys who love tools!
If you are doing a lot of painting let me recommend a new brush I found and love totally. It's a cone shape instead of flat and is used for trim instead of an angled brush. Once you get the hang of it, no taping required and I found I just have more control with it than the angled brush. I used in on my last house and am using it now on this one and it's so good for edging or around windows, baseboards, and other smaller spaces. What few oopses I have had are no big deal and not having to tape is heaven to me.
I've seen them at Rona and HD (probably other places have them but I haven't looked) and they come in various sizes and for latex or oil.
I'll attach a picture of my well used brush so you can see the shape.
Get a sample pot of BM Aura's paint. I've used it on walls and trim and it's really great for a smooth finish, even with a brush. The trim looks like it was dipped in paint rather than painted on with a brush. I found a really good angled brush from the BM store I believe it was and it was well priced too which seems to work better than my clunky old brush I was using.
I generally use a low pile roller on walls, I've tried foam but it didn't seem to hold as much paint and I spent more time refilling it.
I only used 1 coat too except for the orange/red I did the inside of my front door in, so it was a timesaver.
A gallon of Aura is about $70 but well worth it for something like cabinets.
If you like the end result of the BM sample if you decide to buy the BM paint you'll want the Satin finish because they are shinier than regular paints. Their satin looks like a regular semi and their semi looks like a regular high gloss.
Anyway, what colour are you doing?
You know, I should've, could've, would've bought BM but this was my second go round with paint. And I sure hope it goes on well! *fingers crossed!* :)
So, I'm painting the uppers in ICI's Natural White. I love it. It's a warm creamy white. I think it will open up the kitchen as it is a small space. On the bottom cabinets, I'm leaning towards BM's Fairview Taupe which matches the tile grout in the floor. I'll be sure to buy the BM Aura paint for those!
I'll be sure to post some before and after shots when I'm done the painting. :)
Sorry I didn't see this post sooner.
Get a sample pot of BM Aura's paint. I've used it on walls and trim and it's really great for a smooth finish, even with a brush. The trim looks like it was dipped in paint rather than painted on with a brush. I found a really good angled brush from the BM store I believe it was and it was well priced too which seems to work better than my clunky old brush I was using.
I generally use a low pile roller on walls, I've tried foam but it didn't seem to hold as much paint and I spent more time refilling it.
I only used 1 coat too except for the orange/red I did the inside of my front door in, so it was a timesaver.
A gallon of Aura is about $70 but well worth it for something like cabinets.
If you like the end result of the BM sample if you decide to buy the BM paint you'll want the Satin finish because they are shinier than regular paints. Their satin looks like a regular semi and their semi looks like a regular high gloss.
Anyway, what colour are you doing?
Well, I have used semi-gloss with a sponge roller and it definitely was not a smooth finish at all. It's perplexing. :confused:
Melamine and a sponge roller
Judge for youreself with these pix.
Your end result looks fantastic, Northern Miner! Thanks so much for your help. Are you happy with your new cabinets? I'm so eager to paint mine out.
DBD, I agree with the sanding between coats and will do. I prefer my paintbrush, too. Recently, I repainted and distressed a round dining table to practice with my new sander (a Mom's Day gift) and honestly, the finish was supremely smooth...
I am no longer using the melamine paint. I bought 100% acrylic semi-gloss latex and I will be using it. It is the ICI's Kitchen and Bath paint. ICI paint has held up well in our home as I have been painting this past year since our arrival. So, after some research, that is the paint I am going with...I think it will be okay with a good quality brush. :)
The attached pics of my current cabinets...
I used the melamine paint from CIL to do our cabinets and used a roller. It came out well as you can see from the pix and best of all - no lines. Prep is important and the sanding between as mentioned by DBD is also usually required.
Judge for youreself with these pix.
What I have found (and I am about to paint mine this weekend) is this is no time to save a few bucks on paint if you want a nice finish. You need one that levels well and you have to apply enough and leave it alone (no brushing over it over and over) so it will level properly. You also need a good brush and a good roller (so again, ask a store that knows what they are talking about). I didn't bother with a roller as a good brush holds more paint and just seems to work better the way I like to paint and given the small area on a door. As I've been painting lately I've tried the foam rollers and although they are okay, they sure suck up paint which means a lot of refilling or they suck up the paint you just put down when you roll over again. I didn't notice any big improvement over using my normal type roller in the finish being smoother. You'll probably find you do need to get a roller with a really short nap to get nice finish.
The other thing you must do, no excuses if you want a good finish, is scuff sand between coats. That sanding is really the only way to ensure good levelling with two coats.
Last time I painted my doors in another house, my neighbour was also doing hers. She chose to spray and holy cow the prep just putting up plastic to catch the over spray that floats in the air was way more work than I had to do. The painting itself was pretty fast, but such a mess to deal with. Also the guy helping her paint wouldn't even consider the sanding between and she really did end up with a pebbly texture on those fronts while I had a nice smooth finish on mine. I don't know if sprays in general leave that pebble or it was the way they applied it, but I wasn't impressed with the texture they got.
I really believer that sanding is just key whatever you do. I am pretty sure any pro shop sands between which is why they do such a nice job. No contest, it's worth the time it takes so that top coat goes on nice and smooth.
That's great. What kind of roller? With what kind of paint?
I painted mine with a roller
I used a roller brush on a table top I painted and I have to tell you that it left a definite pebble effect. I had more luck with watering down my paint and painting extra coats with a good brush. More patience but less visible brush marks. I wish I could have someone come with me to find these amazing rollers because I cannot find them for the life of me! *insert crazy graemlin!* :laugh:
Where's that Peter Fallico when you need him?! He is always tooting about a good foam roller! :D
PearlG, I emailed the site. I don't want to pay over $500 and that's for four drawer fronts, 20 cabinet doors and two open shelf units. I'll attach pics. After getting our replacement window estimate, I have to be very conservative with my wish list. ;)
Sorry i've never done it but i've always heard that its best to spray cabinets. I know someone who said they just used a roller and brush and that they came out fine and you can't see any marks on them.