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painting melamine kitchen cabinets

kristie5286's picture
kristie5286

Hi everyone!

I would like to paint my 80's melamine cabinets w/ oak trim!
Has anyone out there done this with success? Have pics? Or any suggestions what to do with them?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Inglewood's picture
Inglewood

Great makeover.....nothings impossible

Tangotori's picture
Tangotori

Fantastic job, Cory&Trevor!
Question = will you re=tile your backsplash? I can totally see a white subway tile with this "new" kitchen!

dustbunnydiva's picture
dustbunnydiva

Yes, what a great job. You really took that kitchen from the typical 80's to something very new and up to date. I really like the colour of the cupboards.

sweetpea3's picture
sweetpea3

Congratulations! Cory & Trevor...what a huge difference...you guys did a fantastic job:clapping:your kitchen looks great.You must feel so proud of all your hard work:)

cory&trevor's picture
cory&trevor

before:
[ATTACH]28360[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]28361[/ATTACH]
after:
[ATTACH]28362[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]28363[/ATTACH]

Took me a full (7 days) week. It's a lot of work, but a pretty rewarding project.

The pictures, advice and detailed instructions from posters on this forum got me going. Thanks. I probably wouldn't have tried this otherwise.

What I did:
Took off all doors & hardware.
Ripped oak pull off using circ saw.
Degreased doors (zep from HD). TSP was unneccessary.
Got HD to rip mellamine board into 1.25" strips.
Cut, glued (PL Premium) and nailed (2" brads) 1.25" strips to doors & drawers to replace the oak pulls.
Ironed on melamine edging. Trimmed with tool and knife.
Bought 1.5" x 0.25" x 8' (plastic) trim from HD.
Cut, glued (PL Premium again) and nailed (5/8 brads) trim to doors & drawers.
Attempted to fill nail wholes with caulk. Didn't work. Holes are barely noticeable anyway.
Primed (roller & brush) with BIN shellac based primer (which I got tinted). Dries in 90 mins.
Painted (roller & brush) 1 coat of alkyd paint (BM). Dries in 15 hours (and harder than latex).
Primed then pained face and outside of cabinets (but not the inside).
Mount. Fiddle to adjust clearances required for trim.
Un-mount doors with insufficient clearance. Rip 1/8 - 1/4" from hinge side of door, re-prime & re-paint hinge side then re-mount.
Install hardware.

All cuts were done with a circ saw (combo square required).
I setup 3 8' workbenches (very helpful) so I had space to paint doors and let them dry. I could paint 1 side of half the doors/drawers at a time (then wait).

Go for it and good luck.

mrose's picture
mrose

Okay,

Another necessary question. How did everyone get that oak strip off without damaging the rest of the cabinet door? I'm not a particularly delicate person, and I don't want to wreck them entirely!

anrol's picture
anrol

--------and a nail set to sink the finishing nails into the wood so that you can fill the nail holes.

dustbunnydiva's picture
dustbunnydiva

Tools for doing trim eh..

- measuring tape/straight edge ruler
- pencil
- trim
- appropriate adhesive for trim and cupboard surface (ask at the hardware store)
- finishing nails (to hold the trim while the adhesive sets)/hammer
- something to cut the trim with.. a hand saw (if you have the strength and patience) or a table saw or a power saw of some sort (table saw, miter saw, or a mini-cutter... like this one [url]http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396673079&bmUID=1221500736702&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443294354&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true[/url] I'll post a picture. I have one of these and it's a great little tool and usually goes on sale for about $60)
- a drill depending on the trim because some needs to be predrilled to prevent the nails from splitting it
- wood filler (to fill the nail marks)
- sand paper (to smooth the filler)

mrose's picture
mrose

The examples given above are no less than amazing and inspiring to those of us who continue to suffer with these (not-so) "european cabinets". I was wondering whether, in the continued exchange, anyone has discussed what tools are required. I am looking in particular at the moldings, MDF and cutting of the oak trim and not sure how I'm going to do it....

If anyone has posted step by step instructions or knows where to find them I would be soooooooooo appreciative.

Thanks,

Mary :)

Ecologica's picture
Ecologica

costapczuk wrote:
The above advice was fantastic. Thanks to Pearly for the inspiration!
My hubby and I did two bathrooms and one kitchen.

TIME: 3 full 3-day weekends
COST: $549 total (2baths included)
$14.08 per door

We had a few schmuck-ups, and wasted a little material, and got into a scrap or two with eachother, but it was a fantastic learning project none-the-less. And well worth the work, time, money.

We used 1 coat Kilz Primer, 2 coats C.I.L Melamine Paint
We opted to use pine for the trim. MDF can react badly with water and self-destruct.

We had a hard time adjusting the brackets after we took everything apart and put it back up. We have larger gaps here and there that need to be tweeked.

We found a sneaky way to avoid drilling new holes to drop the cabinets (to make up the gap/hole at the bottom after the oak came off). We realized that by turning a PAIR of doors UPSIDEDOWN and SWITCHING them, they dropped the right distance to cover the gap. Thus no extra drilling or measuring. Voila!

I too am hoping to try my hand at updating my tacky 80's melamine kitchen. I really love the look of the cabinets acheived by the post quoted above. Fantastic job :D

However, before I dive into this project, I have a few questions:

1) What is the best material to use for the accent trim on the cabinet face? MDF, oak, pine?
2) How do you attached the trim to the cabinet face, glue, tack nails or both?
3) If glue was used, what kind of glue?
4) My bottom set of cabinets have a combination of vertical cabinet doors and horizontal drawers. I was thinking of applying trim only to the top and bottom edges of the drawers, rather than creating a frame of trim on each drawer, as done in the post quoted above. I'm just not sure if this would look weird next to vertical cabinets with the full frame of trim? (see photo below)
5) Also not sure how to negotiate the trim on the bi-fold doors that house the lazy susans on either side of the stove (see photo)? I'm guessing a full frame on each panel of the bi-fold door would be most approriate, but I'm open to suggesions?
6) Finally, any suggestions how to incorporate the trim motif to the open oak shelves above the stove?

Thanks, in advance for the advice and wish me lots of luck... I'm gonna need it! :o

diytipsguy's picture
diytipsguy

[SIZE=3][SIZE=2]If you go to you tube and type in kitchen cabinet refacing training this video will provide you with a tutorial and neat ideas, It's a combination of siliconized acrylic paints then covered with real bronze. [/SIZE][/SIZE]

dustbunnydiva's picture
dustbunnydiva

Not sure pearlywhites still checks in but you probably need a glue that will hold to both the melamine and the wood trim. Normally you would use a wood glue and some small brads to hold while the glue cured but I don't know if wood glue will stick to melamine very well. Maybe Gorilla glue?

nbehler's picture
nbehler

I want cabinets just like pearlywhites....how did you attach the molding to the melamine cabinets?

Marcy's picture
Marcy

I am currently in the process of painting my kitchen cabinetry. My cupboards were actually fine (just simple colonial style doors), but they cupboard doors were covered with a white "foil". I believe it is likely shrink wrapped over the doors. Anyway, the glue had started to give way leaving the foil to look like it was bubbling. I have been able to remove the foil from the doors (extremely easily I might add) and paint the mdf that is underneath. Quite honestly, it is going to look better than the original as they looked "plasticy" and now it is looking like I have painted wood doors.

To complete my project, I went to my local Benjamin Moore dealer who highly recommended the use of fresh start acrylic primer and melamine paint in a pearl finish. I have choosen to paint the cupboards Cloud White. I have primed and applied the first coat and am extremely happy with the result so far.
I still have quite a bit of work ahead of me, but think it is going to be well worth it over the long haul.

Wendyp's picture
Wendyp

I've also heard melamine (aka 'enamel') is ideal as a latex option for molding and trim. Mine are currently painted with oil paint, but I'm considering re-priming and going with melamine for a durable, non-oil choice.

Inglewood's picture
Inglewood

It can be tinted any colour you want.

Arizona's picture
Arizona

That is so inspiring.
Can melamine paint be tinted?

dustbunnydiva's picture
dustbunnydiva

Nice change. You must be really pleased with it all.

Wendyp's picture
Wendyp

Great job! Wonderful example of what can be done to inexpensively update those 'European' cabinets from the 80's.

:clapping:

Jeep's picture
Jeep

Great job looks like a new kitchen you should be very proud of yourselves. :applaud:

costapczuk's picture
costapczuk

The above advice was fantastic. Thanks to Pearly for the inspiration!
My hubby and I did two bathrooms and one kitchen.

TIME: 3 full 3-day weekends
COST: $549 total (2baths included)
$14.08 per door

We had a few schmuck-ups, and wasted a little material, and got into a scrap or two with eachother, but it was a fantastic learning project none-the-less. And well worth the work, time, money.

We used 1 coat Kilz Primer, 2 coats C.I.L Melamine Paint
We opted to use pine for the trim. MDF can react badly with water and self-destruct.

We had a hard time adjusting the brackets after we took everything apart and put it back up. We have larger gaps here and there that need to be tweeked.

We found a sneaky way to avoid drilling new holes to drop the cabinets (to make up the gap/hole at the bottom after the oak came off). We realized that by turning a PAIR of doors UPSIDEDOWN and SWITCHING them, they dropped the right distance to cover the gap. Thus no extra drilling or measuring. Voila!

Sezzwho's picture
Sezzwho

Hi, I have a question for Pearly Whites: Do you think melamine paint would be better?? I love what you've done, it's exactly what I'm wanting to do. I'm nervous about ruining my 3-yr old melamine cabinets. They have no wood strip, so that makes it much simpler. Also, what did you use to adhere the molding strips onto the doors?

Stupid builder kitchens, lol. I'll be selling in just over a year and I think buyers expect more from a kitchen that's only 4 yrs old. I'm the 2nd owner, so I definitely didn't choose it! Thanks!

janetc's picture
janetc

teadano...........your kitchen is amazing.........as it pearl whites....what a beautiful transformation :clapping:
smiles
janetc

teadano's picture
teadano

[FONT=Book Antiqua]We bought our house with the same 80's cupboards...My fiancee and I decided that the look was a little outdated and we did the following to update them.

- Cut off the oak trim (we were unable to pry it off)
- Glued and nailed on pieces of melamine cut to size to replace the wood (we purchased a large sheet for next to nothing)
- Cut 2 inch strips of 1/4 inch MDF and glued them along the edges of the door.
- ironed on the melamine edge strip stuff
- TSP'ed and lightly sanded everything
- primed with 2 coats of oil based primer and painted two coats of white latex.
- bought new hardware and voila!

Total the cost was about $250 dollars...

It took us a little longer than we had anticipated, but I'm pretty happy with the end result. Now we just have to replace the fan and put up a nice backspash, and it's a brand new kitchen!

Ps. Pearly-whites... awesome job. I wish i would have read this post 3 weeks ago![/FONT]

sinnes's picture
sinnes

Holy cow! I am in shock of the transformation! You did a fantastic job! And all for only $300 and a week of work by yourself. I am in awe. Great job!

cindy111's picture
cindy111

:) wow

You have done a amazing job . I am so impressed I wanted to ask you how you added the moulding to the melamine cabinets? DID you nail them or glue em what you do exactely ........ I am afraid of nailing into melamine it might split the cabinets plesae share with me how you added the moulding

you can reply or drop me an email .... [email]takemessages@yahoo.com[/email]

thanks cindy ;)

tic's picture
tic

to pain the oak trim part, sand lightly with a 200 grit sandpaper, prime and paint. attaching hardware is advisable so that there is less wear on the paint surface. Use Melamine paint...your local homedepot will have it

glory77's picture
glory77

Hello everyone...I'm new to the board and I just became a new homeowner this past weekend!!
I too, have those yucky cabinets in my new place, although they have the metal trim instead of oak.
I would really like to paint them to update the kitchen....but have NO CLUE what I'm doing! I would also like to put a tile backsplash up - any suggestions from those of you who have done this?

Stephie's picture
Stephie

Thank you pearlywhites for the ‘before and after’ pics and your detailed explanation. And, you did this for $300 – that’s amazing! Wonderful job! You’ve given me so many ideas. I may try to tackle it but I’d also appreciate hearing from anyone who has just painted their cabinets AND the oak trim – anyone have any experience with this?

Many thanks!

Also, thanks bmac for posting about the upcoming episode on Nov. 12 on 80’s kitchens. Appreciated.

bmac's picture
bmac

1980's kitchens on the November 12 show....you can take a look at the program outline if you look under television ... go to schedule and look at Nov 12

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