Do I have to have access to the outside in order to install a stove hood/vent?
And does anyone know how much (ballpark) one of those microwaves with the built-in vents cost? Is there a range of pricing?
Has anyone put in a stove hood/vent and vented to the outside? Is it difficult? Do we need a professional to do it?
TIA
(also posted in d&d forum)
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is the hollow space between the 2x4 studs in the wall - for those cases they sometimes use rectangular ducts rather than round (so they fit in the 3 1/2" deep space)
although in your case if you move it to the fridge location, might be easiest to run it upward and inside the bulkhead (empty box) above the cabinets then out through the wall... short run, fairly easy access, etc... set up the horizontal part of the duct with a very very slight slope towards outside, that way any condensation in the winter won't drip back towards the fan
just to clarify the issue with furnaces etc... those appliances need air for combustion, and the chimney needs an upward draft (usually the fact that the smoke/gasses is hot is enough, then fresh air leaks in to the house and replaces the air that's gone up the chimney) - if you run a very strong fan, sometimes it can actually reverse the direction of the flow in the chimney (backdraft) which is "not a good thing"
I'm a little unclear where to run the ducting! What do you mean by wall cavity?
The wall it is on now is an inside wall--the stairs are behind it (both going up and down.) In the basement, the furnace is directly below. with the hot water heater beside on the side to the outside wall.
Above is the roof: it is a story and 1/2.
Rats, I thought that if I moved the stove to where the fridge is now--another inside wall--but there's LOTS of space next to the ceiling in that row of cabinetry with about a four foot run to the outside wall...
Thanks, LOTS of info and things to consider! (garage not a problem, not attached) Oh and the house is plaster and lathe built in 1949. I haven't a clue where the joists are, lol!
consensus in D&D is that venting to the outside is pretty much the way to go wherever possible
even tho some people may suggest, to save money or materials,
never vent into a garage (risk of car exhaust flowing back in house, plus possible grease spots on the car lol)
never just vent into the attic space hoping the roof vents will pick up everything
never use the wall cavity as a duct, can become a fire hazard
never use long runs of cheapo flex duct, reduces the air flow and traps grease which can become a fire hazard
from your "pick a colour" photos, I think your stove is on an inside wall, correct?
you can either put duct into the wall going down then in basement between joists to outside wall
or run inside wall going up then into attic to the eaves and vent there - use rigid galvanized duct as much as possible, good flexy stuff where there's no other option and tape joints with metal tape (not grey duct tape, it's for everything BUT ducts lol) - maybe need to upsize the duct to compensate for long run
another gotcha, if you add a large super--CFM hood and have older gas/oil furnace or hot water tank, make sure the hood doesn't cause backdraft issues, ask your heating maintenance guy to check next time you get the furnace cleaned - newer direct-vent units don't have that problem
oh yea, regular hood doesn't need its own circuit, but a combo fan/microwave really should be on its own 15A breaker
if you're considering moving the stove, obviously do it before you install the fan, you don't want to do it twice ;)
can be a DYI job with good planning and moderate skills (basic framing, drywall repair, electrical, etc...) - also depends what kind of outside wall you're dealing with (antique stone is more difficult than wood siding etc)