Tofino’s Natural Beauty
In my editor’s letter for our February 2014 makeover issue, I talked about the importance of budgeting time and money for a weekend away to relieve the stress of living through a renovation. Our mid-reno trip was to Tofino, B.C. Arriz and I headed there after attending 2013 IDSWest in Vancouver and it was the perfect end to our West Coast trip.
In 2012 after speaking at IDSWest on how to design a home that connects you to nature, so many people recommended I make the trip to Tofino. I got loads of recommendations on where to say and what to do, and this year I decided to take them up on it! Here I am just before boarding the plane to fly out from Vancouver. Arriz and I were the only ones flying that day, so it felt like we had chartered our own private plane.
It was a perfect day to fly. It was so clear you could see everything: the waves, rocks and sparkling water. This is a shot of Chesterman Beach. This view is the first thing we saw when we walked down to the beach from the Relais and Chateaux where we stayed, the iconic Wickaninnish Inn (better known as ‘the Wik’). We went for a long walk right away, and on a sunny day like this it felt like summer.
I even took a nap inside the gentle grooves of this driftwood log, what better spot to soak up the sun?
Here is the view back to the Wik. The Pointe Restaurant, the highlight of the inn, is the octagonal-shaped glass structure perched on the rocky shoreline and is an incredible setting to dine in.
Not only is the food stellar but the Pointe Restaurant was designed so that every table in the room has a view to the crashing waves below.
And on a stormy day like this one that we experienced later in the trip…
… it’s both exciting and comforting to be indoors watching the chaos outside.
There is a ton of hiking on Tofino and most of the trails feature these impressive boardwalk structures that let you hike without getting your feet wet or mucky. On our first full day there we took a short boat ride across the inlet to Meares Island, where you can wander through the woods on the Big Tree Trail and see 1,800 year-old trees, including the famous Hanging Garden Tree with a circumference of 60 feet.
Here is Arriz shooting the giant redwood trunks, some of the oldest and largest living life forms on earth. He was entirely dwarfed by their massive scale.
Long Beach is another standout beach on Tofino where I spotted this cool outdoor assemblage that someone created out of wood and seaweed. It reminded me a bit of the ephemeral work of sculptor Andy Goldsworthy. I am a big fan of his work.
We booked a full day with Remote Passages at sea for whale watching and spotted these basking sea lions.
If you sail around Vancouver Island, you earn the right to get your boat’s name inscribed on a board on another series of boardwalks in the north end of Clayoquot Sound, which is home to Maquinna Provincial Marine Park. We walked over hundreds of names on the trip leading to the hot springs at the tip of the island.
This waterfall leads down to the natural geothermal Hot Springs Cove where there are five interconnected pools set close to the shoreline. If you arrive at high tide you can soak in the hot pools and experience a surge of cold ocean water washing into the hot pools as the waves crash over the edge. It creates an alternating sensation of hot and cold for a refreshing al fresco soak; like a natural outdoor spa! It was totally invigorating.
On the boat ride back we stopped in front of this rock face that features an ancient bird carving (near the bottom at the right). But the fascinating part was how these migratory birds gather here. I love how they look like silhouette paintings against the cliff — so beautiful.
Each day, after hiking and exploring, we would return to the inn to be greeted by the stunning cedar front doors carved by Henry Nolla. There are numerous examples of Coast Salish artwork, which is becoming more and more popular, sprinkled throughout the inn. And as you can see the entire inn has a distinctly rustic vibe — think redwood walls, rustic wood chairs, granite counters and Hudson’s Bay Point blankets.
One of the best places to storm watch at the inn is from the second floor library, which is equipped with a telescope.
But the inn’s rooms feature oversized glass windows so you can experience the view from the comfort of your bed too.
Even the bathrooms have fantastic views.
Of course, you can’t talk about Tofino without mentioning the incredible surfing, which gets even better during the storms. Personally, I was more enthralled with the trails in the sand caused by the changing tides. But my entire long weekend in Tofino was the perfect remedy to any reno stress.
1., 3., 7-9., 12., 15., Arriz Hassam
2., 4-6., 10-11., 13-14., 16., 19-20., Suzanne Dimma
18., Wickaninnish Inn